Lawncare Advice

Lawncare Advice

Feeding
The fertilizer formulations that lawns need vary at different times of the year. In the spring more nitrogen is needed to replace what has been leached from the soil in winter and to green up the lawn. You could consider using a nitrogen based fertiliser with a selective weedkiller which will also control most annual weeds.

A fertilizer with more potassium should be given in late summer which replace the nutrients removed during mowing and toughens the grass ready for winter.

To keep moss at bay use a fertiliser that includes iron sulphate.

Lawn fertilizers are usually applied as granules or powder and these release nutrients over a period of several weeks or more. They should be applied when grass is in growth, when the soil is moist and before rain is forecast so that the fertilizer will be washed into the soil.

It is well worth buying a good fertiliser spreader - one that spins the fertiliser on, rather than one that drops it out through the bottom. This ensures that the fertiliser is applied evenly. To avoid scorching on the overlaps, especially if a feed and weed killer mixture is used, apply half working up and down and half the feed working from side to side to get an even coverage.

Top-dressing after aerating
Top-dressing can be used to fill holes left by aeration, to keep the passage open and to feed the grass and stimulate growth, or to fill in and level small hollws in the lawn surface. Top-dressing usually consist of a mixture of sand, peat substitute and loam. Either use a spreader which can be hired or apply evenly with a shovel and use a stiff brush to even out any excess and to work into the grass.

Lawn Weeds
Greenblade turf arrives completely free of weeds. A dense, healthy lawn will make it difficult for weeds to encroach so regular maintenance will go a long way to keeping it weed free. Hand weeding will deal with small numbers of weeds and ensure that the numbers do not build up. If a herbicide becomes necessary use a proprietary weedkiller at the recommended rate.

Moss Infestations
The best defence against moss is to keep your lawn strong and healthy. Weak grass growth can be caused by a number of factors: waterlogging, shade, mowing too short, too little fertiliser, drought. Try to correct the cause of the problem. However, moss will tend to creep into even the best lawns and so to keep it at bay make sure that your spring fertiliser contains iron sulphate.

Lawn Pests & Diseases
Most lawns suffer from few pests and diseases and these can often be tolerated on general-purpose lawns. Fine-leaved grasses can be prone to a few common diseases if they are not growing strongly but early treatment can prevent long-term damage. Other lawn problems may be caused by the nature of the site or by algae, moss or lichen. Always consider treating the cause of such problems, such as drainage, removing fallen leaves, fertilising correctly before using chemicals. Although lawn pests are not easy to control with chemicals there are useful sprays that can be used against the most common lawn diseases. Unless the problem has been experienced in previous years it should not be necessary to apply preventative sprays. Remember not to mow immediately before or after spraying chemicals on to the lawn, and heed manufacturers’ instructions about restricting pet’s access after spraying.

Cats and dogs
Urine often burns lawns; more so in dry weather. Pour water over the soiled areas. Use repellents. Re-turf patches that have been badly affected.

Worm Casts
Deposits of mud (worm casts) are found on the surface of lawns, and are particularly noticeable if the turf is of fine quality. The casts become smeared by lawnmowers and feet, making the turf muddy and slippery. Moss and weeds can develop on these muddy spots.
Worm casts are produced mainly during September to October and March to early May when the soil is warm and moist, and also in spells of mild weather during the winter. Worms remain close to the surface under these conditions. When the soil is dry or cold they go deeper into the soil, resulting in less deposition of worm casts on the surface.

Allolobophora species of earthworms are responsible. These worms feed on decaying vegetation in the soil and they deposit their muddy excrement on the lawn surface. Earthworms can have beneficial effects in lawns as their burrowing activities help in aerating and draining the soil. They also incorporate organic matter into the soil by pulling dead leaves into their tunnels.

Disperse worm casts when they are dry, with a besom broom or an up-turned wire rake moved from side to side. However, there are often few days during the autumn to spring period when worm casts are sufficiently dry for this to be an effective solution.

The regular addition of spring/summer lawn fertilisers based on ammonium sulphate may make the topsoil acidic enough to discourage earthworms.

Pesticides for the control of lawn pests are no longer available to home gardeners. Pesticides marketed for professional use cannot be used on garden lawns, although it is possible have them applied to sports turf, such as a bowling green. In that type of situation it may be worth employing a contractor who has the necessary Certificate of Competence to use professional pesticides on amenity turf.

Leatherjackets
These larvae of crane flies feed on grass roots, causing brown patches in spring and summer. An effective method of control is to cover the lawn with a plastic sheet at night to draw them to the surface. Remove the plastic early in the morning for birds to eat them.

Chafer Bugs
These creamy-white, brown-headed grubs eat grass roots during the summer but they are usually far fewer in number than leatherjackets and rarely require action.

Ant Hills

Toadstools
Toadstools feed on organic matter in the soil. They should be brushed off as they appear to prevent spore production. Rings of them are difficult to control with chemicals.

Lichen
These flat leaf like growths indicate impoverished soil, although shade may cause their presence. Improving the growth of the grass or applying lawn sand will help.

Slime Mould
These strange-looking fungi are a sign that the lawn is badly drained. The surface of the lawn should be aerated or the whole site drained to prevent the mould spreading.

Algae
This green or black slime is a sign that the lawn is poorly drained. Lawn sand usually kills algae quickly but it will reappear on consistently wet lawns.

Snow Mould (Fusarium)
Often in small areas but can spread. It occurs in autumn and under compacted snow. Scarify; avoid high-nitrogen feeds in the autumn.

Red thread (Corticum)
A problem only on starved, fine-leaved lawns in late summer, when leaves look bleached and covered with red threads. Strong turf however usually recovers.

Dollar spot
This fungal disease causes straw-coloured patches up to 5cm across. It is most common on fine turf and can be prevented by removing thatch through scarification.